– German, what would be your advice to a young man who is thinking about becoming a jeweler?

– I think of myself more as a designer than a jeweler… I can say that if you plan just to be a jeweler, you need to study the trade. If you want to become a designer, then in addition to your sense of imagination you need to have an independent vision of the most common things.

– Is it important for a jeweler to adhere to traditions?

– A jeweler has to do it, but not the designer.

– Talking about traditions, one must remember the most famous jeweler from Russia Carl Faberge. Where is the former glory of the Russian jewelry art?

– Faberge was a Frenchman, who took Russian jewelers to the world stage. These include Perkhin, Khlebnikov, Ovchinnikov, Kholmin, and many others. The Russian jewelry industry needs a figure like Guus Hiddink, the new Dutch coach of the Russian national soccer team.

– I read in a newspaper that there will be a presentation and an auction of a young jeweler in Moscow. The starting price of a basic set that includes a ring, earrings, and a pendant is 550 thousand dollars. Do all young jewelers in Russia value their art like that?

– I do not know the name of the person you are talking about, but if the price is based on the high cost of the materials of which those pieces of jewelry are made, then it is fine. If the price is made of the “talent” of the young designer, then it is simply a societal sickness. The oil reserves of our country negatively reflect on the self-esteem of the young generation.

– German, how would you characterize your style and the direction that you are working in? One magazine called your art an expression of aesthetic marginality…

– It is hard for me to define my style. I’ve never given much significance to it, and my customers would be in a better position to speak about my art. As far as the “marginality” goes, it seems to me that this word actually has its origins in the U.S. – from immigrants that did not adapt to the new social conditions. In this sense, I think that the phrase is on point. I do not like to follow the crowd. The word “aesthetic” also gives the expression a certain degree of charm.

– Who are your clients? How do you visualize them?

– From the experience that I have with my clients, I can tell you that these are self-sufficient people who can think for themselves. These are people who have a quest in life.

– What stands behind the brand name of German Kabirski in Russia?

– The brand of German Kabirski is a young brand. Today, we have production facilities in Russia and in Bangkok. We have several boutiques in Moscow. There are many third-party companies in many countries around the world that sell my products without mentioning the name. I am hopeful that this arrangement will soon change. I would like to enter the American market independently.

– Most of your production capacity is in Thailand… What advantages does it give you?

– It is not exactly like that. The main issue is that it is difficult to export products from Russia. That’s why we moved our volume production lines to Bangkok. All exclusive high-end products are, of course, made in Russia.

– What are your favorite stones?

– I like stones with natural defects, when there are some natural inclusions. I like tourmalines and color sapphires.

– How many collections do you release every year?

– Our products are released not by collections, but rather by periods. They characterize our condition in the different times of the year. More than 700 new pieces are released every year.

– In early June, your company made its debut at the largest jewelry show in the U.S. JCK Las Vegas. Was the start successful?

– It was not easy. For some reason the Americans were a little scared of the Russian flag over our booth. I think many of them know that it is difficult to export from Russia. We had to explain to them that the products are made in Thailand – that changed the attitudes immediately. We found many contacts and offers of cooperation.

– What collections did you present at the JCK show? What was the feedback?

– I was showing a small part of our products that I was able to bring from Russia with great difficulty and our volume products from Bangkok. Of course, what I brought from Russia I could not sell – otherwise it would have been gone on the first day...

The first reaction to our products is that people did not believe that this design was made in Russia.

– Your impressions about JCK? What is in style today? Who are the legislators of fashion in the jewelry world?

– I have equivocal thoughts about the show. Many items sold at the show lacked original design. I liked some U.S. companies from New York and Los Angeles that have their own face, and whose design does not yield ground to world-known jewelry brands. The Germans and the Scandinavians in the Design Pavilion similarly did not leave me dispassionate.

I do not keep track of fashion. Fashion is very much distinct from style. Tendencies in fashion are shaped by a small group of show-business people. Fashion is for everybody. Style is exclusively for the chosen ones.

As far as the legislators of the jewelry industry, for the U.S., they are Harry Winston, Tiffany and Co., Jacob & Co., and David Yurman. David Yurman is closer to me. In the global jewelry industry, some of the new and young ones include Stephen Webster, Gilber Albert, Roberto Coin.

– Does the American market attract you?

– The American market is vast, and that is why it is highly attractive. America frequently sets the standard for the jewelry world. Being recognized in America means being recognized in the world. Being recognized in Russia is not an end in itself. American designers go to Russia not for recognition, but out of commercial reasons.

– German Kabirski as a person – what does he like and what does he not like?

– It is a difficult question.  “Liking something” or “not liking it” are equally precious to me. What is dangerous is indifference.

– How many jewelry pieces must every woman have? What is absolutely imperative?

– I think that every woman must have her set of jewelry items for any occasion. Most importantly, those pieces should highlight the individuality of the woman and carry constructive energy.